Chefs Piter and Handry Tjan’s Kobo tasting counter is the ultimate splurge here (see page 82), but you can still have a memorable—and affordable—meal at this sleek Japanese restaurant. Delicacies abound, especially among daily specials that include prizes from the sea (Hokkaido uni) and land (foie gras nigiri). Don’t miss artful composed plates such as yellowtail crudo with orange-infused ponzu. Vegetarians, take note: The kitchen offers one of the best selections of meatless Japanese fare in town. Moderate.
Also great: Smoked-mussel miso soup; tempura squash blossoms; hot-rock Wagyu; soft-shell-crab roll.